Oklahoma Baptist
Disaster Relief
 

Chain Saw
Training Manual
 
 
 
 
 
Updated 7/14/10

                                                                                                                                                                                        

INTRODUCTION
The purpose of Oklahoma Baptist Chain Saw training is to teach Disaster Relief personnel a consistent and safe method of chain saw operation. We realize that many of you have used chain saws most of your adult lives and feel that there is not much to be learned. At the completion of this course we hope you will also feel that this was time well spent.
A chain saw has been identified as the most dangerous tool that a person can use. So we want to be faithful stewards of the people the Lord send us by talking, training, and observing safety in every aspect of Disaster Relief.
		When hurricane Hugo hit the east coast, the storm killed 14 people. During
		the clean-up and recovery, 15 individuals died as a result of chain saws and
		tree removal.
We also feel it is necessary to complete this class because, during ministry, all eyes are on these “Christians” and what they are doing. The Lord deserves only our best.
Once again, we thank you for your time and dedication. Thank you for your help in this ministry.
In Christ
Sam Porter							Mike Barrick
Director							Instructor/Mobilization Coordinator
Oklahoma Baptist Disaster Relief							for Chain Saws
sporter@bgco.org							Oklahoma Baptist Disaster Relief
405/942-3000 ext 337							mrbarrick@sbcglobal.net
405-990-8155							405/379-2824
							405/221-0175
BASIC EQUIPMENT
Listed below you will find the basic equipment that should be found in a typical Southern Baptist Disaster Relief chain saw trailer.
This is based upon the results of the Chain saw Task Force group that met during the 2002 National Disaster Roundtable.
Chain saws
Extra chains – have on hand at least two chains per saw
Safety equipment
	Helmets
	Chaps
	Gloves
	Eye goggles
	Ear protection
	First Aid Kit
	Fire extinguisher
	Water cooler with cups
Gas cans with mixture oil
Funnel
Bar oil
Saw cleaning materials
Files
Ropes
Wedges
Sledgehammer
Axe
Hand tools
Come-alongs
Pruning pole
Pry bar
Extension ladder
Duct tape
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CHAIN SAW SAFETY
What is safety? Being careful, a set of rules, or maybe an attitude? Safety is all of these. This document is intended to give the reader an overview of safety as it relates to chain saw operation and maintenance. The following procedures are mandatory when operating a chain saw with Oklahoma Baptist Cleanup and Recovery teams. Hopefully, these procedures will become second nature any time you are operating or maintaining a chain saw. Remember, the saw blade is traveling in excess of 80 feet per second. Just a touch can result in serious injury in as little as a split second.
SAFETY GEAR
The first part of the procedure is intended to explain the importance and use of the required safety gear. Gear requirements include hand, head, ear, and eye protection as well as the proper clothing with chaps.
Clothing must not be loose fitting. Loose fitting clothing could become tangled in brush and limbs as well as the saw. Anything that could become entangled must be secured before operating a saw. Proper footwear is also important. High top boots with lug soles offer superior traction. Chain saw boots are preferred.
Necessary safety equipment is located on the unit. This includes helmet with eye and ear protection, gloves, and chaps. These must be worn any time you are operating a chain saw.
Chaps are a key part of the safety gear. They are constructed of material that resists cuts from the saw teeth. The internal material will also choke the saw to a stop when entangled.
Chain saw gloves or mitts are constructed of material that resists saw cuts to the hands in the event of a kickback. These gloves provide a better grip while reducing fatigue resulting from extended operation.
Chain saw helmets are also provided. The helmet not only provides protection to the head, but it includes a pull-down eye shield and ear covers to reduce noise.
Later demonstrations will explain proper use of safety features built into the saw such as the chain brake.
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OPERATION
STARTING TECHNIQUE
When starting the saw, always use a method that utilizes the chain brake and insures that the saw is secure. We recommend the “on-the-ground” starting method.
1.	Examine the work area. Make sure that the area is free of obstructions such as
limbs, vines, and other people.
2.	Apply the chain brake.
3.	Hold down the trigger in the full throttle position.
4.	Push the choke lever down into the full choke position.
5.	Put the saw on the ground and put your right foot in the handle, pinning it to the ground.
6.	Put your left hand on top of the saw handle to brace for the kickback when pulling the starting cord.
7.	Several quick pulls should make the saw sound like it is ready to start. At that time move the choke lever up one notch and pull the cord again. This should start the saw.
8.	After the saw has started, release the chain brake with the right hand, and rev the
	saw for about five seconds (cold start).
9.	Re-apply the chain brake and verify the saw idles properly in all positions as
	demonstrated by the instructor. Make any needed adjustment.
REACTIVE FORCES
When in use the chain saw creates four reactive forces – pull, push, attack, and kickback. Following is an explanation of each.
	PULL: When used for cutting, the bottom of the bar will pull away from the
	operator. Have a firm grip on the saw and insure that feet are firmly planted.
	PUSH: When used for cutting, the top of the bar will push the saw back toward the
	operator. Position the body to brace the saw as demonstrated.
	ATTACK: Attack refers to the bottom half of the bar tip. This point is used when
	starting a bore or plunge cut.
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	KICKBACK: When used for cutting, the upper half of the bar tip will cause the saw
	to kickback toward the operator. DO NOT USE THE UPPER HALF OF THE BAR
	TIP. Serious injury may result.
BORE CUT
Trees with backward or forward lean pose some difficulty and generally require the operator to make a hinge prior to completing the back cut.
When performing a bore cut, it is very important that the saw teeth be as sharp as possible and the saw is running at maximum RPM. Use the attack corner of the bar as demonstrated. Never use the kickback portion of the bar.
TREE FELLING PLAN
There are five steps to consider before attempting to cut a tree. A few moments spent evaluating the situation prior to the cut could save serious injuries later.
1.	Consider the possible hazards. Hazards may include wind velocity and direction, obstacles in the path of the tree, dead limbs, hollow or rotten tree trunks, and spring poles.
2.	Determine the lean of the tree and how it will be handled. If the lean is in the direction of objects that cannot be relocated, it will have to be compensated for.
3.	Plan your escape route. The safest route is at a 45-degree angle to the rear, away from the direction of the fall. The path should not only be clear but also allow room on either side for a change in plans. As the tree begins to fall, you should begin to walk away, keeping alert as to whether the tree is indeed falling in the planned direction. To avoid falling limbs and debris, get at least twenty feet away from the trunk of the tree.
4.	Determine the actual cut dimension. The open face method will always be used. This method consists of a notch, hinge, and back cut. The notch cut is made on the side toward the direction of fall. The notch should form at least a 70 to 80 degree opening. The width of the notch is approximately 80% of the diameter of the tree. The hinge cut is then made leaving 10% of the trunk intact to control the direction of fall. As a rule, the hinge width should be 10% of the diameter of the tree.
5	Establish a back-cut plan. This plan will vary with the size of the tree and the direction of lean. If the tree is relatively small and leaning in the direction you want it to fall, there is no problem. However, this is a rare occurrence. If you have a 36”
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	tree trunk and an 18” bar you will have to make at least two cuts. In this case the bad side should always be cut first, then install wedges as needed to finish the cut.
SPRING POLES
A spring pole is a condition that exists when a smaller tree or limb is trapped by a larger falling tree. The trapped tree stores unreleased energy and can pose a serious threat when released.
A small spring pole no more than shoulder height can be cut from the top. To determine the proper cutting position of taller spring poles, the cutter must envision a horizontal level with the top of the arc. A vertical line must be envisioned parallel with the trunk line. From the insertion point formed by these two lines, come down at a 45-degree angle and the cut should be made where the line meets the trunk. The cut should be made with the saw at maximum RPMs. The saw should be lowered slowly into the trunk. The cutter should position himself at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of fall.
Taller spring poles must be released from the underside. After determining the cutting point, carve away a broad section of the trunk until the spring pole is released.
LIMBING
The next objective is to remove the limbs from the tree. A large limb vertical to the trunk can be removed using the open face method. Small limbs can be cut using the bypass cut, so that all fibers running along the limb are severed. A limb that must be removed from the trunk can be removed by making an initial compression side cut and then going to the backside and cutting until the limb moves.
To avoid rolling when removing an entangled limb, use the tongue-and-groove cut. To make a tongue-and-groove cut, make a plunge cut through the limb at the halfway point. Make a second cut on the compression side four to six inches above the plunge cut. The cut should stop parallel with the plunge cut. This severs the lengthwise fibers and allows the limb to be removed while under complete control. This method may also be used when a log is spanning a ditch or other logs.
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CHAIN SAW MAINTENANCE

                                                           

CAUTION: Protective gear must be worn while performing maintenance on the saw.
The performance of your saw can make the different between a good day and a bad day in the field. There is nothing more frustrating than a saw that does not operate properly once you are in the field and ready to go to work. Maintenance is very important.
Maintenance should be performed at the unit or preferably in a shop where a vise and adequate space are available. The field is not the appropriate place to do maintenance unless absolutely necessary. If maintenance must be performed in the field, find a clear area and spread a tarp on the ground so smaller parts will not be lost.
MAINTENANCE PROCEDURE
1.	Do a visual inspection of the complete saw.
	A.	Look for loose or missing screws.
	B.	Check trigger mechanism and throttle lock.
	C.	Inspect chain for cracks and wear.
	D.	Inspect chain catcher. If missing or torn, replace.
2.	Clean air filter.
	A.	Use air or vacuum to remove all debris from filter. Never use solvents.
	B.	Replace air filter if cracked, torn or completely clogged. If the saw cannot
		breathe, it will not work properly and may cause engine failure.
	C.	Clean the carburetor and area under filter with air or vacuum. Carburetor
		cleaner may be used if excess cleaner is removed before starting saw.
3.	Inspect sparkplug.
	A.	Blow all debris from plug socket.
	B.	Use a socket with rubber boot designed for sparkplugs.
	C.	Slowly remove plug.
	D.	Use a toothbrush to clean the sparkplug. Do not use metal or sandpaper.
		Blow off debris.
	E.	Check sparkplug for cracks or eroded electrode.
	F.	Check sparkplug gap. Set to manufacturer specification, usually .020.
	G.	If plug is worn, cracked or oily, replace it.
	H.	Replace plug. Be careful not to over-tighten.
4.	Check starter cord.
	A.	If worn or frayed, replace. This can be accomplished much easier in the shop.
	B.	Check pull handle. If cracked or broken, replace.
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5.	Check flywheel and pawls.
	A.	Remove flywheel housing and clean flywheel with toothbrush.
	B.	Clean ignition wiring and check for wear.
6.	Inspect clutch drum and drive socket.
	A.	Remove housing, chain, and bar retaining nuts.
	B.	Lay chain and saw aside after marking bar with an arrow on the top side
		to be reversed when reinstalled.
	C.	Clean with toothbrush and/or vacuum
	D.	Check sprocket for wear.
	E.	Check clutch for wear.
	F.	Remove housing for debris.
	G.	Clean muffler screen. Check for cracks or other damage.
7.	Clean chain and bar.
	A.	Clean bar groove with small flathead screwdriver or flat thin
		piece of metal.
	B.	Inspect the bar for wear, using caution. As bar wears, the edges may
		become sharp. If so, remove the edge with bar or flat file.
	C.	Place chain in bar groove and check for excessive side-to-side play. If
		there is too much play, bar must be re-grooved. This may be done with
		the proper tool or by the dealer. Do not discard bar.
8.	Inspect chain.
	A.	Check for wear.
	B.	Check for broken, cracked, or loose links or teeth.
	C.	Check sharpening mark to make sure chain has not been over-sharpened.
	D.	Check links to make sure sharpener is not cutting into links. As you sharpen the
		tooth, it gets smaller and shorter. A smaller diameter stone or file must be used.
	E.	Check chain catcher. The chain catcher is designed to catch the chain if it
		breaks or comes loose from the bar.
	F.	Verify that the brake locks and unlocks properly.
9.	Sharpen the chain.
	A.	There are five sections to the chain saw tooth.
	B.	The raker depth should be 20 to 30/100 less than the point. Do not file the
		raker below 30/1000. This will not increase cutting. It will decrease the speed
		and overwork the saw.
	C.	Working corner (point). This is where the cutting begins.
	D.	Side plate. This cuts the fiber. It should have a 5-degree forward lean.
	E.	Top plate. The top plate angle should be 20 to 30 degrees. It establishes the
		width of saw kerf by pushing the tooth to the side as it cuts.
	F.	Chisel angle. The chisel angle should be 45 to 55 degrees. This allows the chips
		to slide underneath the tooth.
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10. Filing
	A.	The file should be held so that 25% of the file extends above the tooth.
	B.	The tooth should be filed at a 20 to 30 degree angle. The raker section of the
		tooth should be 0.002 to 0.003 inches below the remainder of the tooth.
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